The Blond, the Brut, and the Manufacturer

Le Blond, le Brut et le Fabricant 

Text (Moto Heroes) / Photos Laurent Scavone

The first Selvedge jeans line

made in France by Gentlemen’s Factory

Since 2014, Gentlemen's Factory, the Lille-based brand for lovers of characterful motorcycles, has been reinventing motorcycle clothing icons or chic and rock'n roll organic basics.
In 2014, the Hauts de France team offered us a re-edition of mythical 30s/40s racing sweaters with mittens, in 2015 a suede jacket "homage to the Kings of cool" with an inner windbreaker and raglan sleeves, inspired by Steve McQueen's wardrobe. In 2016, they introduced French work jackets made of indigo moleskin, inherited from the French working class, and made-in-France gas station attendant jackets. In 2017, they hit it big with a slim perfecto with removable protectors based on vegetable-tanned leather named Loubard. This September, they are offering a beautiful line of French-made Selvedge jeans, and that's a first! It's a first because even if made-in-France jeans are back, Selvedge (thick fabric with traditional manufacturing) was not yet available, so it's a significant event for lovers of old-fashioned jeans.

The Blonde:

To embody this made-in-France collection, the northerners wanted to pay tribute to the land of jeans, the US, which made blue jeans a symbol of pop culture, a banner of freedom, and an object of emancipation for women. Laurent Scavone, the brand's creator, explains, "we can always communicate about made in France; it's undeniably a selling point that can interest some consumers and can also justify its price, but for us, what matters most is the aesthetics, the cut, the quality of the product, the look you'll have wearing this line. Nice visuals in Paris or elsewhere are cool but not enough to convey the message that interests us!! Jeans are a symbol of freedom, a staple, and an essential in our wardrobe. What would a biker be without his jeans? Imagine James Dean, Steve McQueen in velvet pants! Easy Riders in a three-piece suit! So let's talk about the function of jeans and the adventures we will experience with them. However, we also wanted to counter this American culture, which is not ours, by transposing it here, where the brand was born, in the North, and for that, we needed a cowboy as comfortable on a motorcycle as in our raw denim. By chance, on the podium of the best world riders, there is a handsome guy from the North, Adrien Van Beveren! Several times winner of the Enduropale, French sand champion, official Yamaha rider, fourth in the Dakar…"
[caption id="attachment_1365" align="aligncenter" width="1135"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha en photo pour Gentlemen's Factory marque de vêtement casual pour amateurs de moto. Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider, photographed for Gentlemen's Factory[/caption]
"We often see Adrien on the tracks, and even if this rider travels the world in Yamaha colors, he has remained very accessible and very caring with his compatriots from the North. When we asked him to participate in this photoshoot, he didn't hesitate for a second, rescheduling his agenda for us!"
Yamaha involved in this shoot? The motorcycle Adrien Van Beveren uses is an XSR700 prepared by the Portuguese company Maria Riding Company. How did it get to this shoot?
"It was Adrien's idea to better match the Gentlemen's Factory style, but Yamaha completely played along and delivered the bike at their expense; obviously, they were interested in the project! The bike is really cool, very maneuverable and pleasant in all riding conditions, despite a rear shock absorber that's too soft for a Van Beveren-style ride on our northern spot… The bike took a beating; I hope the guys at Maria won't hold it against us."
[caption id="attachment_1366" align="aligncenter" width="1135"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha en photo pour Gentlemen's Factory marque de vêtement casual pour amateurs de moto. Adrien porte une veste en jean selvedge made in france by Gentlemen's Factory + des chaussures Chippewa boots. Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider, on The Orbiter by Maria Riding Company[/caption]
The Raw:
We won't dwell on the origins of jeans; that's not the point. Instead, we'll talk about the "Selvedge" fabric used here for the first time by GF (Gentlemen's Factory) in France. Jeans enthusiasts (Japanese denim) are familiar with this fabric; it has a very vintage, authentic style, ages well, with a perfect fade, and gives your look a very rock'n roll edge. Selvedge is a contraction of the English term "Self-finished edge". Selvedge jeans have a very tightly woven fabric with reinforced edges, making the fabric much stronger and preventing fraying. This fabric is recognizable because the warp threads at the inner seam are a specific color, usually red, which creates very beautiful cuffs. Selvedge is manufactured on traditional looms, as is the indigo for GF fabrics. This old-fashioned technique has almost disappeared in the USA, except at Cone Mill Denim, but is still used in Japan to meet the demand of purists. It's even said that the Japanese bought Levi's looms at the time to manufacture their fabric.
[caption id="attachment_1368" align="aligncenter" width="1869"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha en photo pour Gentlemen's Factory marque de vêtement casual pour amateurs de moto. Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider, in Made-in-France Selvedge Jeans[/caption]
The Manufacturer:
Who are these French jeans manufacturers? Audrey, Laurent Scavone's right-hand woman, answers us. "For some years now, small French production units have gambled on quality by manufacturing jeans in our territory. Some have a foothold abroad with production lines to satisfy low-cost markets and a foothold in France with small clothing workshops for more qualitative, more specialized demands on markets with limited production. We are fortunate to have the trust of a manufacturer based in Saint-Pierre-d’Entremont KIPLAY, a French commune located in the Orne department in the Normandy region for those who enjoy GPS rides! But not only there, there are others in Florac in the 48, Romans (26), Marseille (13), Bobigny (93), and Roubaix (59). Young French designers like us are pushing these workshops to resume service, and it's working! It's complicated because experienced labor is not being renewed; the average age in the workshops is around 50, those who leave are not being replaced, or rather, were no longer being replaced. We need to rebuild the industrial and artisanal fabric of spinning mills, dyers, weaving, and garment making, which is the case for our workshop."
[caption id="attachment_1370" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Orbiter de Maria Riding Compagny Yamaha XSR 700 Orbiter by Maria Riding Company Yamaha XSR 700[/caption]
Undoubtedly, this collection, featuring two pairs of jeans, two jackets, and a women's jumpsuit, is therefore of high quality with an authentic cut, ideal for riding a motorcycle or for facing glances at work. It will be available at the end of September on the brand's website and at GF retailers in France, Switzerland, and Spain, but be aware that there won't be enough for everyone, as only 100 pieces of each product will be manufactured and distributed, awaiting a second production in January.
[caption id="attachment_1371" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha sur L'Orbiter By Maria Riding Compagny Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider, on The Orbiter by Maria Riding Company[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_1374" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha sur L'Orbiter By Maria Riding Company . Photos Laurent Scavone Orbiter Yamaha XSR700 by Maria Riding Company[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1393" align="aligncenter" width="1203"]Ensemble blouson et jean Selvedge made in france by gentlemen's factory. Mannequin Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yahama Selvedge jacket and jeans set made in France by Gentlemen's Factory.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1384" align="aligncenter" width="1135"]Yamaha, Arai, Monster energy, Gentlemen's Factory. Yamaha, Arai, Monster Energy, Gentlemen's Factory.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1372" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha sur L'Orbiter By Maria Riding Compagny Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider, on The Orbiter Yamaha XSR 700[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1375" align="alignnone" width="2004"]Adrien Van Beveren porte un sweat bio Cafe Racer et un jean Selvedge Gentlemen's Factory. Photo Laurent Scavone Adrien Van Beveren wearing an organic Cafe Racer sweatshirt and Selvedge jeans by Gentlemen's Factory[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1377" align="aligncenter" width="2800"]Araceli porte un sweat jupe en coton bio by GF. Photo Laurent Scavone Araceli wearing an organic cotton sweatshirt skirt by GF[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1379" align="aligncenter" width="2800"]Araceli porte une tenue by GF. Camping car et voitures US photo shoot streetwear pour gentlemen's =factory Photo Laurent Scavone Araceli wearing an outfit by GF. Photo Laurent Scavone[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1380" align="aligncenter" width="1135"]Adrien Van Beveren porte un tee-shirt bio wheels et un jean Selvedge Gentlemen's Factory. Photo Laurent Scavone Adrien Van Beveren wearing an organic wheels t-shirt and Selvedge jeans by Gentlemen's Factory[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1381" align="aligncenter" width="1131"]Blouson en jeans selvedge Gentlemen's Factory, casque Arai. Photo Laurent Scavone Selvedge denim jacket by Gentlemen's Factory. Photo Laurent Scavone[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1382" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]wheeling Adrien Van Beveren by Gentlemen's factory. Photo Laurent scavone Wheelie by Adrien Van Beveren for Gentlemen's Factory[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1386" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Photo Laurent Scavone. Photographe de mode et spécialiste de la photo en action sports mécaniques. Photographie en action de moto. Photo by Laurent Scavone[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1385" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Glisse autour d'un pickup Ford F100 by Adrien Van Beveren. Yamaha XSR700, poussière et dérapages en moto. Photo Laurent Scavone Drifting around a Ford F100 pickup by Adrien Van Beveren[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1392" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Ensemble blouson et jean Selvedge made in france by gentlemen's factory. Mannequin Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yahama Selvedge jacket and jeans set made in France by Gentlemen's Factory.[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_1399" align="aligncenter" width="1869"]Veste en jean Selvedge made in france, tee-shirt moto pour Araceli, merci Adrien Van Beveren. Photos Laurent Scavone Selvedge denim jacket made in France, motorcycle t-shirt for Araceli, thanks to Adrien Van Beveren[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1393" align="aligncenter" width="1203"]Ensemble blouson et jean Selvedge made in france by gentlemen's factory. Mannequin Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yahama Selvedge jacket and jeans set made in France by Gentlemen's Factory.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1387" align="aligncenter" width="1700"]Adrien Van Beveren pilote officiel Yamaha sur L'Orbiter By Maria Riding Compagny Adrien Van Beveren, official Yamaha rider on The Orbiter By Maria Riding Company[/caption] [caption id="attachment_1402" align="aligncenter" width="2800"]Araceli Torrado mannequin Argentine. Sweat shirt Araceli Torrado, Argentine model. "Give me a Bonnie" Gentlemen's Factory sweatshirt[/caption] GF would like to thank, through this article, Kiplay, Adrien Van Beveren, Yamaha France, Arai, American Classics, Maria Riding Company, Araceli.